Impressions of Tsarabanjina, Madagascar.
As featured and advertised in the October 2010 issue of Skyways, Airlink's inflight magazine
An excerpt from the diary of a recent guest at Tsarabanjina Lodge... Standing amid the bustle and pungent smells of Helville (Madagascar's old colonial harbour) we watched in anticipation as the elegant white catamaran eased in to whip us off to Tsarabanjina in true Peter Stuyvesant style. We'd just flown into Nosy Be, the largest island off the northern tip of Madagascar and a popular retreat for Europeans seeking a little respite from the cold and dark winters. With direct flights from Rome and Paris, some Europeans at least are afforded the luxury of same day access to this island paradise. Travelling from South Africa requires a mandatory stopover in Antananarivo, but with all the wonderful shopping to be had at the markets, we didn't mind at all.
After 90 minutes braced against choppy seas and passing elegant dhows, pirogues, myriad islands and forested coastline en route, Tsarabanjina lay before us like a white seabird with wings outstretched. The name means "good to look at", and rightly so. The menthol blue water and white sand married to create such stark and dramatic beauty, that we were left agog. Even the kids were quiet as we drank in the view. The team of staff welcomed us with wide, toothy grins, serving to distract us from their minimal English. We stepped from the boat onto snowy coral sand and from there it was just a short walk up to the bar and eating area - also with sand underfoot.
Our Robinson Crusoe-style wooden cottage was perched on a sand dune, offering sweeping views of the beach below. I was in awe of the way the sky, water, volcanic rock and sand all melded together to paint a picture of pure exotic fantasy. We could barely wait to jump into the turquoise water. It was so clear that visibility extended all the way to the sea floor, which lay a number of metres below. Cowry shells and giant clams lay nestled on the white sand, while brightly coloured little fish swam nonchalantly around our legs.
After our quick dip we hurried back to the main beach where we joined a group of excited adventurers waiting with goggles and fins. The resident snorkelling instructor - who is also a marine biologist - was going to lead us all on a guided snorkel. No need for boats here, we swam straight off the beach and headed towards a coral outcrop just off the island. Before long we were drifting among the corals, with curious tropical fish hanging about to see what we were up to. Snorkelling with someone who's able to identify the various species and knows all the best spots from which to view this magical world underneath the sea took the experience from "Great" to "Out of This World". A highlight for me was when a small turtle seemed to literally 'fly' past, his fins moving gracefully to the beat of music only he could hear.
Fit for royalty
Salty mouthed and tired, we headed back for lunch. A spread fit for kings (or hungry underwater explorers) awaited us in the form of fresh salads, whole grilled fish, marlin carpaccio, home-baked breads, and creatively sliced fresh fruit. What a treat to savour these exquisite local flavours while listening to the waves lapping up on the shore. And once we'd eaten our fill (and then some) we warded off the soporific effects of the meal by enjoying a strong Italian espresso in the lounge. As we sank into the welcoming sofas and squished our toes in the soft powdery sand that is the lounge floor, we had to ask, "Can it get any better than this?"
The island is small - a rock scramble around the whole island will take you all of forty minutes. The inland forest is largely inaccessible, so activities remain coastbound, with snorkelling, fishing, swimming, kayaking, sailing and rock hopping being the main diversions on offer. That is, if you can bear to drag yourself away from the comfy deck chairs and hammocks that seem to be everywhere.
We spent our short time there exploring the three gorgeous beaches, scrambling over rock formations and through ragged rock pools around the island's fringe. The end of the island has a sandy spit that connects to another small island - a sacred spot to the Malagasy. Legend has it that deep in its caves (and visited only by cyclone-driven high tides) lie the bones of the Sakalava tribe kings. We honoured their remains with gifts of shells carefully wrapped in coconut shells. The island is liberally sprinkled with beautiful shells - gifts from the sea, offered up as clues to the many secrets it holds.
Complete Getaways
- April
An authentic Italian culinary experience - March
Wildlife meets luxury living - February
Out of Africa - January
Royal Passage
- December
Happy Holidays - November
Quality Assured Accommodation - October
The Kingdom of Swaziland - September
Rest easy - August
Effortless southern Africa - July
The myth of exorbitant Airlink fares - June
Gourmet Northern Cape - May
Golf in the Wild - April
A Sip of Sunshine - March
The Magic Coast - February
The Green Kalahari
- November
The Magic Coast - October
Impressions of Tsarabanjina, Madagascar - September
How green was my valley, and Live the Lake Jozini experience - July
Home away from home
Our destinations
Ah, the sea!
I could wax lyrical about the beautiful rooms and delicious food, or the amazing spa where expert hands massage you into a state of deliriousness. But in truth, it's the hypnotic allure of a sea that is impossibly blue, and the lull of its waves as they crash with marked casualness onto the beach. It's the natural arches that frame the sunsets and the cowry shells lying on the beach like tiny presents - those are all reason enough to visit this island lost in time. Go to Tsarabajina and dive down deep amongst the gardens of coral, bask in the simple thrill of clear, warm water and sunshine on your body. Come up. Breathe. Know that you are truly alive.
In an industry where the term "luxury" has been touted with such gay abandon that it now holds about as much appeal as being a millionaire in Zim dollars, it makes a refreshing change to come across a philosophy that is truly unique; One that bases the use of the word "luxury" on its ability to breathe life into dreams. The Hotels Constance Experience - in operation since 1975 - has become the successful operation it is today by making this philosophy the very foundation on which its core concepts of exclusivity, emotion and elegance are based. These core concepts, in turn, are around which each of its first class luxury establishments revolve. To this progressive organisation, luxury is in the experience. One of the key ingredients in the success of the Hotels Constance Experience is in the meticulously chosen locations of its hotels. They must be beautiful. They must be remote. And they must be unique.
They found this and more in Madagascar - a land of sun, flavour, volcanic character, warm hospitality and natural wealth. Placed on the water like a soft kiss, Tsarabanjina really is a place of dreams. This private island boasts blinding white beaches, turquoise waters, warm winds, luminous marine life, lush vegetation and a symphony of birdlife. For the weary soul who wishes for nothing more than to escape the bustle of contemporary existence, Tsarabanjina is the perfect getaway.
Located in north western Madagascar, 40 miles from the port of Nosy Be (90 minute crossing by speedboat or 25 minute helicopter flip), Tsarabanjina is one of the paradisiacal islets of the Mitsio archipelago. Sheltered from natural disasters, it is bathed by sunshine all year round. 21 Bungalows lie scattered along the its north and south beaches - all utterly private and perfectly charming, constructed of rosewood and thatch amid waving palms and soft sands, affording guests panoramic views of the ocean (these are best appreciated from the vantage point of one's hammock). Long, lazy days stretch out before you, enticing you to relax on the beach or enjoy a luxurious massage. Should you find yourself with more energy that what is required to turn the pages of your book, you can try wandering along lush paths and climbing the hills of the island hinterland. You may even be lucky enough to catch a glimpse of the world's smallest chameleon. If water activities are more your speed, then an afternoon of communing with the island's vibrant aquatic world while snorkelling might be just the thing for you. Water skiing, sailing and sports fishing are also on offer. Whether you're a beginner or advanced, the coral reefs of Mitsio are a diver 's delight. And for the more exerciseconscious there is aquagym, tropical tennis and volleyball. Daily excursions can also be arranged.
Seafood is Tsarabanjina's specialty and sumptuous meals are served in the open-air restaurant or on the beach. Dress code is strictly no shoes! The Tsarabanjina island experience is like none other. The intangible becomes tangible as dreams become reality. The best way to travel to Tsarabanjina is to fly from Johannesburg to Antananarivo (or Tana as the locals call it) and then from Tana to Nosy Be. A night on Nosy Be island is necessary and guests are usually booked into the Royal Beach Hotel, which is situated on Madirokely beach in close proximity to the local markets and activities. On the return leg of the trip a stopover in Antananarivo is required (except on Thursdays) and then guests are booked into the Orchid Hotel. It is ideally situated five minutes from Ivato airport, making it the perfect choice for one-night stays or early morning departures
If you have time to spare, then the Pavillon de l'Emyrne is a charming and traditional guesthouse situated in the city centre close to a choice of excellent restaurants.
Nosy Be island and on to Tsarabanjina without the hassle of overnighting elsewhere.
While well worth a visit, Madagascar is not the easiest of holiday destinations to negotiate, so it's highly recommended that you find yourself a travel agent. Preferably one that specialises in Unusual Destinations.
Log on to www.tsarabanjina.com for further information or for booking enquiries.
How to get there:
Airlink offers daily direct flights
from Johannesburg to Antananarivo.
www.flyairlink.com